Modern European·
Silver Award

SquareMeal Review of Perilla

Silver Award

On a corner of Newington Green with huge windows looking onto the busy streets, Perilla’s interior looks like a masterclass in salvage: old doors are repurposed as tables, drinking troughs serve as wine coolers and there’s a vintage terrazzo floor, while huge linen napkins add a welcome touch of luxury. The food is adventurous but genuine, with bags of imagination applied to good ingredients: shards of cauliflower-shaped ‘sparassis’ mushrooms are teamed with salted plums and ricotta, all shrouded in lustrous lardo, while mains include a wonderfully meaty dish involving 60-day loin of beef topped with a sliver of rump, served with steamed mussels and Tropea onions in a rich green sauce. To start, superb seaweed bread is brushed with roasted lamb fat and served with delicious burnt butter (sticky fingers all round!); to finish, don’t miss the sweet clover-infused custard with Muscat grapes and tarragon. The perfectly judged European wine list has plenty by the glass or carafe, but there’s also hipster local beer and a choice of homemade soft drinks. Perilla’s owners are on a mission – and the locals seem to love it.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Modern European
Cool, Lively
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Special occasions

About Perilla

Set in one of north London’s loveliest neighbourhoods, Perilla is a laidback restaurant serving up modern European plates that use basic but high-quality ingredients to elevate them to new heights. Open for both lunch and dinner it welcomes diners who repeatedly return for the regularly changing menus that feature just a handful of options per day. Not to be missed is the house made sourdough with brown butter. Following on from the opening act, the small plates’ section might bring a robustly rich mushroom tart or whiting fried in beef fat with chip shop curry sauce. If you’re after a fuller feast there is a set five course menu that encompasses some of the chef’s favourite dishes of the day, and at £44 reflects great value.  


1-3 Green Lanes, Newington Green, London, N16 9BS

020 7359 0779


Opening Times

Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat 12:30-15:00
Sun 12:30-16:30
Mon 18:00-22:00
Tue 18:00-22:00
Wed 18:00-22:00
Thu 18:00-22:00
Fri 18:00-22:00
Sat 18:00-22:00
Sun 18:00-20:30


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7 Reviews 

Stephen D

11 November 2021  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4
Atmosphere 3
Value 4
Excellent neighbourhood restaurant

geniunely surprised by how good this restaurant is. My one small criticism - and it is small - is that the restaurant was very busy and a bit too noisy as a result. But that's because the food and service is so good that they are bound to be busy for a long time to come. the greek salad is a wonderfully inventive dish that defies the very understated description and really stood out for me. Good wine list and attentive staff made for a very good evening and i'll defnitely return (if i can get a table).


Dennis H

26 July 2019  
Imaginative food without going too experimental, team led by Ben Marks are a delight and very much in the image of Ben himself. Good range of wines that are fairly priced. A joy from start to finish.

olly S

08 July 2019  
Just fantastic, simple and very tasty food & wine.

Geraint L

02 July 2019  
Delicious and unusual dishes. Great wine list and friendly services. A small restaurant so need to book but there are two sittings.

Serena K

28 June 2019  
Interesting, intelligent cooking and a regular changing menu coupled with a diverse and heavily organic/biodynamic/natural wine list makes this an excellent choice for lunch or dinner. Ostensibly it's a neighbourhood restaurant with a relaxed friendly feel, but the food really catapults the experience into something special - excellent value too.

Jens B

29 March 2019  
Innovative food, great service, laid-back atmosphere, very competitively priced.

Serena K

02 July 2018  
Innovative, exciting modern British cooking with "new Nordic" influences, the chef really knows what he is doing and his passion and enthusiasm along with that of the rest of the staff really shines through. Great low intervention wine list, warm and welcoming front of house and a lovely relaxed vibe.
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