Nestled on Brighton’s seafront, just moments from the beach, Pearly Cow is a high-end steak restaurant with an air of Parisian bistro sophistication. With plush velvet seating, mood lighting and an intimate underground setting, it strikes the perfect balance between elegance and comfort.
The service is polished yet welcoming, with knowledgeable staff offering excellent wine recommendations. The list itself is well curated too, and includes some excellent English sparkling wines, like a Hundred Hills Blanc de Blancs. It's a perfect partner for an opening pair of delicate tacos - one with lobster, apple and fennel, the other with red pepper, goat’s curd and olive.
What followed was a procession of well-judged grill cooking: warm, home-baked bread with beef dripping butter; a silky plate of venison carpaccio; and gorgeous wood-fired scallops, given rich, nutty hefty by a coating of brown butter. This is how comfort food should be done.
Fillet steak requires exacting cooking, and an 8oz fillet was right on the money, its tender texture enhanced by a well-balanced peppercorn sauce. Wagyu short rib is a trio of words that would have most of us banging cutlery on the table, and this highly sought after beef truly delivered alongside a stack of huge, crispy beef dripping chips. Again, Pearly Cow's staff were on hand with a perfect wine to match - a smooth Buitenverwachting Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2022 with just a hint of spice.
We finished the meal with a mascarpone crème brûlée. The glassy caramelised top cracked effortlessly, revealing a silky, vanilla-rich custard, its indulgence cut by the bright sharpness of a sour cherry sorbet.
Pearly Cow is just what you hope it will be - a restaurant that concerns itself with little more than great ingredients, cooked properly, and knowledgeable service, making it one of Brighton’s best spots for meat lovers.