Nestled on Brighton’s seafront, just moments from the beach, Pearly Cow is a high-end steak and meat restaurant with the air of a Parisian bistro. Plush velvet seating, moody lighting and an intimate underground setting make it feel like a proper escape from the bustle outside.
Service is polished and confident, with staff making excellent wine suggestions. We began with a glass of Hundred Hills Blanc de Blancs and two while-you-wait tacos - one with lobster, apple and fennel, the other with red pepper, goat’s curd and olive. While neatly presented, these were a little underwhelming compared to what followed.
Our starters set a stronger tone. The venison carpaccio was silky and well-seasoned, but it was the wood-fired scallops with cauliflower and brown butter that truly stood out. Cooked beautifully, they delivered a rich, nutty depth that stayed with us long after the meal - we’d happily return for them alone.
It’s the steak that anchors the menu here though, and it doesn’t disappoint. The 8oz fillet, served medium rare, was a top-quality cut cooked with precision, paired with a peppercorn sauce that added just the right depth. The short rib of Wagyu, served with pommes mousseline, was also impressively tender and deeply indulgent, though the accompanying elements felt a touch heavy for our tastes. For those looking to share, the 36oz porterhouse is a fantastic centrepiece and showcases the same attention to quality and technique.
Beef dripping chips deserve their own mention - towering, layered and perfectly crisp, they were some of the best we’ve tried.
Desserts often fade into the background in meat-led restaurants, but not here. The mascarpone crème brûlée with sour cherry sorbet was outstanding: silky and vanilla-rich, with a glassy caramel top that cracked cleanly. Possibly the best crème brûlée we’ve had outside of France.
With its focus on quality British ingredients, considered cooking and confident service, Pearly Cow is a strong addition to Brighton’s dining scene - particularly for those seeking a stylish setting and a menu built around indulgence.