Hot off the success of Rome-inspired Lupa, hospitality trio Ed Templeton, chef Naz Hassan and co-owner Theo James have turned their attention north with Ornella. London arguably has no need for another pasta joint, but it’s hard to argue with the easy warmth and effortless feel of this new East London spot. The paint is barely dry, but it already embodies the feel of your favourite local; chatter drifts out onto the streets where overflow drinkers gather, primed with an aperitif in hand.
A butter-yellow facade brightens the street outside, whilst inside the room leans into warm minimalism, all Scandi furnishings, pale woods, and tall windows, softened by flowing sheer curtains. Tightly packed tables make the most of every inch of the dining room, whilst an open kitchen hums away at the back, slinging out heaped bowls of pasta.
We settle by the window, making the most of its prime people-watching territory, and quickly order an Ornella Spritz. It’s a slightly sharper twist on the Limoncello alternative, though it has that same zesty, summertime feel. Paired with a crisp, olive-oil drenched wedge of focaccia and a few fennel-infused slices of salami, we could’ve happily ended the evening there. But there’s plenty more to explore.
Where Lupa celebrated the trattorias of Rome, Ornella leans fully into Hassan's Milanese roots. Plates have a distinctly Alpine touch, putting the focus on hearty, dairy-rich fare. A burro e parmigiana is beautiful in its simplicity: glossy ribbons of tagliatelle are coated in a rich, buttery sauce, dressed with a hefty dusting of 36-month-aged Parmesan.
The tajarin al brodo di cipolla, however, is a true standout. Delicate strands of taglioni swim in a Roscoff onion broth, served alongside molten cheese toast engineered specifically for soaking up every last drop. Milanese-style chicken arrives juicy beneath a crisp, golden coating, paired with pomme puree that’s so silky it's practically liquid butter, and peas that are flecked with fatty lardons.
We finish with a traditional bunet, a chocolate creme caramel doused with amaretti that leans a bit too tart, though a smoky mezcal-laced Espresso Martini makes for a much smoother finish. Ornella isn’t trying to reinvent Italian cooking; it’s simple, charming, and full of reliably excellent bowls of pasta - exactly the kind of neighbourhood restaurant you’re always hoping to stumble across.