What was a tiny industrial unit on Brixton Market has been transformed into Okan – a charming little Japanese canteen with concrete floors and basic wooden furnishings, plus a few wooden toys, paper lanterns and prints to brighten up the mood. There’s a cooking area behind the counter (it’s hardly a kitchen), and the menu is street food with the emphasis on yaki soba noodles and ‘as you like it’ okonomiyaki – savoury pancakes comprising a batter/shredded cabbage base, various toppings (from pork and kimchi to cheese and sweetcorn) and a dollop of sesame-spiked Japanese mayo. Okan now has a licence for beer and saké (if you want something stronger than organic green tea or apple juice), but note that it’s cash only and doesn’t take bookings.
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