Noodle and Beer is both exactly what you’d expect, and then not. The name alone is enough to lure in waves of punters craving fiery noodles and frosty pints, but while the original Spitalfields spot does what it says on the tin, the rebellious younger Chinatown sibling throws a bit of a curveball.
At ground level, it’s all casual cafe vibes, but descend the stairs and you’re suddenly in a mood-lit, red velvet den of noodle-fuelled debauchery. It’s a vibe clearly built with the 3am licence in mind, though it’s a touch disorienting if you’ve just popped in for a quick lunch.
We sink into plush tub armchairs that are perfect for sipping a Pear Martini or Whisky Highball, though not so much for slurping spicy broth. And slurping is unavoidable here. Things get messy, fast. Pro tip: don’t wear white - chilli oil doesn’t forgive.
The menu is short and snappy - starters, rice dishes and a clutch of hearty noodle bowls. Portions are generous. We start with a Sichuan chicken salad drenched in red chilli oil and crushed peanuts. It’s bold, punchy, almost veering into overkill but staying just the right side of the tracks.
If you’re here for noodles (and you should be), the braised beef rib number will no doubt attract your attention. It lands with theatrical flair: a hulking rib perched like a Flintstones centrepiece, sprayed with gold dust. Although it's high on pomp, it’s pretty well executed too: the meat is tender with just enough chew; the noodles pleasingly springy; the sauce deep and rich, if a little oily by the end.
There’s also Bing Fen on the menu - Noodle and Beer claims to be the only place in the UK dishing it up. This cold jelly dessert from Southwest China arrives with unroasted peanuts, sesame seeds and raisins. It’s texturally interesting, but the flavour combo feels a bit off. One of the fruitier versions might hit better.
In the end, Noodle and Beer is great fun, even if the food is a bit of a mixed bag. Upstairs suits a speedy daytime bite, but downstairs? That’s where the real fun starts - preferably post-midnight, cocktail in hand, chopsticks at the ready.