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SquareMeal Review of Myse

Gold Award

True hospitality is an art attempted by many but perfected by few. Myse in Yorkshire is of the latter ilk, offering an expertly polished, proper northern welcome and mind-bendingly good, gallery-worthy food.

You start off cinched in around the bar with its log burner and wooden tables. While you get to work on your drinks (there’s an excellent list) the kitchen team brings snacks like a smart venison tartare and fermented plum tartlet covered in smoked caviar and a slow cooked ox cheek bon-bon in Yorkshire pudding batter.

Once in the neutral-washed dining room courses keep coming. All fourteen of them. In less capable hands you’d leave feeling defeated, but here most things are just a couple of restrained bites. Sometimes it’s the absence of things that can make food sing and our favourite things were concentrated around key ingredients.

A scallop drenched in urchin butter and roe powder was insanely good; sweet and briney, tasting of the sharp salinity of British shores. Chef Josh Overington says it’s near flawless, and while the confidence feels at odds with British bashfulness, it’s hard to argue. Other highlights included a sourdough crumpet crisped in fat and topped with liver mousse and ripples of duck ham, and a thin slice of duck sausage made from the neck of the bird. In fact, there’s an honouring of ingredients which feels like the chefs are sourcing and handling their produce with the utmost respect - a suspicion you can see in action as they tweeze plates to perfection from the open plating station.

The cooking might be serious and built on rock solid foundations, but the whole experience is lighthearted and fun. There are plumes of smoke caught under cloches, canapés to be eaten off sticks and whole roast meats wafted at you tableside before being ferried back to the kitchen for plating.

It’s no secret that food brings joy, but this is a particularly special spot that will leave you feeling proud of British produce, grateful for UK talent and thankful to yourself for the treat of restorative, transformative food.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisine
British, Modern European
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Fine dining, Glamorous, Luxury
Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal UK Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Perfect for
Dates, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating
Food Hygiene Rating 5 for Myse

About

Experience the charm of Mýse, a restaurant with rooms offering a British tasting menu curated by chef Joshua Overington and sommelier Victoria Overington. Situated in the beautifully scenic village of Hovingham amid North Yorkshire's Howardian hills, Mýse pays homage to the region's rich history through Joshua's sophisticated take on traditional Yorkshire cuisine.

Named after the Anglo-Saxon word for ‘eating at the table’, ‘Time and Place’ shape the menus, showcasing the day's unique, locally sourced ingredients. Mýse is committed to championing small-scale local producers, embracing regenerative farming, and sustainability. From foraging and fermenting to crafting bespoke tableware, the team ensures a wonderful dining experience. Whether enjoying drinks by the fireplace, dining in the open kitchen's ambience, or staying in the beautifully renovated 19th-century inn's en suite rooms, Mýse promises a memorable and surprising fine dining adventure.

Naturally, dishes here change regularly. But, to give an idea, you might see the likes of grilled crayfish with blood pudding, hand-dived Orkney scallops with sea urchin butter, duck bone broth, and monkfish cooked over coals and served with Isle of Wight tomatoes. Leading into the sweets, the menu evolves to include crushed frozen apples with lemon balm, candied raspberries, and flamed quince cake with malted barley. On Sundays, Myse puts on a special set menu featuring the finest cuts of glow-grown grass-fed beef, which are salt-aged and handpicked each week by the team. 

Collaborating with esteemed wine importers Keeling Andrew & Co, Mýse’s wine list and pairings offer up bottles imported by the same team behind Noble Rot. Enjoy house made non alcoholic drinks featuring local seasonal fruits and herbs, or opt for the thoughtfully curated wine pairing (or 'prestige pairing') for a complete dining experience, available for pre-order or during your meal.

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FAQs

Is there parking nearby?

Yes, there is a free car park.

Can the restaurant cater to dietary requirements?

Yes, but we require 72 hours notice.

Are children welcome?

There’s a very grown up feel to the evening, so we’d suggest leaving the little ones at home for the night.

Can you stay the night?

Yes, there are three bedrooms.

Details

Get directions to Myse Get directions to Myse
Location
Main Street, Hovingham, North Yorkshire, YO62 4LF

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri 12:00-15:00
Sat 12:00-15:00
Sun 12:30-18:00
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 19:00-23:00
Thu 19:00-23:00
Fri 19:00-23:00
Sat 19:00-23:00
Sun Closed
Bar
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 16:00-23:00
Thu 16:00-23:00
Fri 12:00-23:00
Sat 12:00-23:00
Sun 12:00-23:00

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