The drive up to Grantley Hall's magnificent stone facade prepares you for something extraordinary. Inside the hallowed halls of this 17th-century property lies Shaun Rankin's almighty fine dining masterpiece, a tasting menu-only experience inspired by Shaun's upbringing in Yorkshire, and incidentally where he won a Michelin star for the third time in his career.
The setting builds the suspense. The dining room is a picture of uncapped opulence, its high, corniced ceilings accentuated by white marble columns and vintage chandeliers. This is Grantley Hall's flagship restaurant and a fitting setting for Shaun's menu, but for a more intimate experience, you can book the six-person Kitchen Table located in the heart of Shaun's kitchen, a hair's breadth from the methodical workings of the chef team. This is where we're sitting today.
Both settings hinge around Shaun's exploratory Taste of Home menu, a gastronomic ode to his childhood growing up in Yorkshire and its bountiful local larder. Most of the ingredients don't travel much further than the kitchen garden, and what follows shows deep respect for freshness and seasonality. Snacks arrive promptly, including a heavenly bite of duck liver parfait with sharp blackberries and beetroot meringue, then an elegant dish of lobster dressed in a sprightly sea buckthorn hollandaise. The bread course comes in three: homemade sourdough served with butter infused with more than 10 different herbs, and a nourishing beef 'tea' that takes four days to make.
The meal crescendos with a fantastic grouse dish, here partnered with a spherical dumpling filled with slow-cooked leg meat, a cube of barbecued celeriac glazed in homemade Marmite, and a rich grouse sauce infused with preserved blackberries. Though technically complicated, Shaun often fills his menu with playful, nostalgic ideas, including his signature 'Magnum', a sweet-meets-savoury pre-dessert filled with mellow pumpkin ice cream and crunchy roasted pumpkin seeds. Dessert rounds off this celebration of Yorkshire's produce with fresh blackberries, crisp wafer and sorrel ice cream sitting harmoniously on a plate.
To drink, the Discovery wine pairing encompasses an intriguing selection of lesser-known grapes, from an aromatic Palava from the south Slovak wine region to a delicate South African Grenache. Like the food, service doesn't miss a beat, but the experience never feels stiff or overdone. This is flawless cooking in a setting befitting of its brilliance, and one we'd confidently rank amongst the greatest gastronomic experiences in the country.