After 13 years at London’s longest-running Michelin-starred restaurant Pied a Terre, chef Asimakis Chaniotis has flown the nest to embark on his own personal venture, combining his years of classical culinary training with the nostalgic recipes and flavours of his Greek heritage.
The chef is front and centre on our visit, moving between open counter and dining floor, welcoming guests as they arrive and, when he can steal a spare moment, serving his own creations with warmth and energy and at their tables. We can sense the excitement and pride in what he’s accomplished here, and rightly so. The restaurant itself is dazzling, inspired by the natural beauty of Kefalonia’s Myrtos beach. Apart from a swathe of electric blue artworks on the walls, the space is awash with luxurious cream tones and natural textures - a gorgeous depiction of sand and sea – from ashy woods to pristine marble, while circular tables centre around a cascading olive tree.
The food is excellent, too. Greek cooking is often synonymous with rusticity, but Asimakis’ classical background sees him reimagine even the humblest of dishes through a fine dining lens. Silky smooth taramasalata marries the unmistakeable salty kick of smoked cod’s roe with a gentle dill oil. Fluffy pitta breads are brushed with the familiar earthy warmth of good olive oil and fresh oregano. One of his signature dishes, a riff on Greek salad, sees a bulbous tomato that’s been skinned and stuffed, sliced open at the table and served on a bed of barrel aged feta mousse. This is a must-order, if you can stomach the £18 price tag.
You can max-out your experience with a sharing main if you like. We order lobster ‘giovetsi’, a glossy orzo number spiked with basil and lemon for £60, which is very nice but potentially not where the fun lies. Our advice? Go big on the dips, and save room for dessert. A slice of ‘portakolopita’ - an impossibly light orange syrup-soaked phyllo cake – is one of the best sweet things we’ve eaten this year.
Myrtos is a restaurant for deep-pocketed locals, but you’re promised top-level hospitality, highly skilled cooking and a seat in one of of London's most beautiful dining rooms in return.