Muse by Tom Aikens

Modern European·
££££
·
Gold Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Muse by Tom Aikens

Gold Award

Tom Aikens’ Michelin-starred restaurant finds its home on the corner of a quiet mews in Belgravia. Its frontage, much like its owner, is deceivingly understated and doesn’t quite reflect the magic that lies behind its whitewashed walls. This is Muse in a nutshell, quietly achieving culinary excellence without making a song and dance about it.  

The restaurant is small, tiny even, and seats a maximum of 25 diners across two floors. Our seat at the counter upstairs is the best way to experience Tom’s intricate cooking, boasting an unrivalled look-in to the methodical workings of the kitchen team.  

It's a rare skill to be able to maintain an exceptional level of detail across 10 courses, but Muse achieves over and above what’s expected from a plate of food. For starters, each course is inspired by a personal memory of Tom’s, a particularly great example being one entitled ‘Conquering the Beech Tree’, reflective of Tom’s childhood sense of fearlessness, which sees langoustine wrapped in wafer-thin pork fat and served with a small, sweet black splodge of apple puree. This single bite is served on a twig, alongside a small bowl containing a rich bisque made with langoustine claw to minimise waste. That’s just one course.  

Elsewhere, a miso-licked piece of monkfish with pumpkin gnocchi, crispy seaweed and a mussel sauce delights with sweet and salty contrasts. The finale is a feat of beauty and grace: a picture-perfect mille-feuille in which apple, brown butter, cider brandy and a butterscotch sauce combine the nostalgic flavours of apple crumble and sticky toffee pudding in one layered masterpiece.  

You could write a short novel about the intricacies of each course, the main takeaway being that, for all its complicated backstory, every idea absolutely lands. We left Muse with a foreboding sense that we will never experience a meal quite like that again.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
Modern European
Ambience
Cosy, Fine dining, Luxury, Romantic, Unique
Other Awards
One Michelin star
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Chef’s table, Counter dining
People
Birthdays, Celeb spotting, Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About

Upmarket Muse occupies an intimate 25-cover space in a renovated mews property in one of the most chi-chi corners of Belgravia. It’s the brainchild of chef Tom Aikens, who has returned to London’s fine-dining scene after a five-year absence.

Muse is split over two floors of a characterful mews house, with each floor boasting a fully open plan kitchen which allows diners to see the kitchen team at work. The space has been designed by Australian interior designer Rebecca Korner, who has combined an eclectic mix of furniture with splashes of jewel-toned marbles and rich woods.

The restaurant exclusively serves multi-course tasting menus, with Aikens drawing on his childhood memories and moments in his illustrious career to inspire dishes. The tasting menus evolve with each season and include stripped-back dishes which place an emphasis on one key ingredient or element. Unsurprisingly, the tasting menus come with an appropriate Belgravia price tag, however, a smaller tasting menu is available for under £100 for those on a slightly tighter budget.

Speaking about the opening of Muse, Aikens said: “Throughout my life, I have been inspired and influenced by many different people, places, time and travels. My new home, Muse, pays homage to all of these and more.”

Aikens is one of Britain’s most highly acclaimed chefs, and he still holds the record for being the youngest ever chef to be awarded two Michelin stars, a feat he achieved at the age of 26 when he headed up the kitchen at Pied à Terre. At Muse, Aikens works with British suppliers and farmers who are as passionate as the restaurant about provenance. These include HG Walter (an independent, family-run butcher), Flying Fish (who supply fish and seafood to the restaurant within 48 hours of being caught) and The London Cloth Company.

Illustration: Brodie Williams


FAQs

Does it have a Michelin star?

Yes, it has one Michelin star.

Helpful? 1

Who runs the restaurant?

Tom Aikens.

Helpful? 0

Is there an a la carte menu?

No, the restaurant only offers tasting menus.

Helpful? 0

Muse by Tom Aikens is featured in

Location

38 Groom Place, Belgravia, London, SW1X 7BA

020 3301 2903 020 3301 2903

Website

Opening Times

Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 18:30-23:00
Wed 18:30-23:00
Thu 18:30-23:00
Fri 18:30-23:00
Sat 18:30-23:00
Sun Closed
All day
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu 12:30-16:00
Fri 12:30-16:00
Sat 12:30-16:00
Sun Closed

Reviews

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3 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anne T

27 December 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Incredible food and attention to detail from the beautifully crafted menus to the choice of steak knife. Sitting up at the marble chefs table was a fantastic experience and very entertaining. 

Grenville C

19 November 2021  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
Pure Genius.

Surely there is no other restaurant of this class within the U.K.

It has taken a very sophisticated mind to put this operation together, the care with which the ingredients have been chosen is nothing less than astonishing.

The result is a revelation.

The 20 staff act in total harmony and if you are able to get a bar seat upstairs, watching Tom and his staff preparing the food is endlessly fascinating and a cookery masterclass in itself.

Congratulations and thanks to Tom and all his staff for an utterly wonderful lunch.

Magic!

 

Lloyd S

11 December 2020  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 4
Value 5
Absolutely Stunning

This was a fantastic dining experience that will be remembered for quite a while. A visit to a Tom Aikens restaurant had been on our list for a time now so therefore when we read about his latest venture it really appealed to us and we couldn't wait to go. This all came to fore on a delightful wednesday lunchtime. We arrived at hyde park corner and made the short walk to the restaurant which is in a fabulous corner setting of a mews. We were given a friendly welcome on arrival and were shown into the ground floor area which has a small lounge area plus availability for five people to sit at the chef's kitchen counter. Then after a brief chat we were escorted upstairs to the main restaurant area. This is where you'll find seating for twenty people (6 at the counter & 14 on tables). We took up the kind offer of being seated at the chef's counter as this gives you a great opportunity to see all the hard work that goes into creating their amazing dishes close up. There were two choices of menus on offer a three course lunch or our choice the seven course tasting menu. We started with a gin & tonic while we were presented with a fabulous selection of snacks titled Forever Picking along with Bread & the heavenly homemade butters.

 

This led us onto our first course the PUMPKIN a Soup with dumplings , mussels & trompettes. Straight away you could taste the amazing flavours and see the fabulous attention to detail that went not only into this dish but to all that was to come. We followed this with the WILD DUCK with custard , brioche & foie gras which once again was a flavour sensation. Before the first course we met with sommelier Angelo to recommend a glass of wine for the following two dishes and it's fair to say he came up with a couple of great suggestions.

 

The next course was titled SPROUTS but I can tell you now you'll never have them like this as together with cabbage , bacon & bread sauce they were delicious. Now it was time for a lighter dish and the beautifully cooked DOVER SOLE with broccoli , seaweed and a champagne foam. This led us to the main course of PHEASANT which was accompanied with chestnut , celeriac & cranberry and was yet another stunning plate of food. Congrats also to Angelo for the fabulous wine pairings with this dish.

 

I'd now like to pause for a moment and say how the service and friendliness from Tom , Seamus , Julien , Danny & Angelo was absolutely first class and they really do everything to make your lunch a memorable occasion. We now move onto the supplemented CHEESE course which was a fantastic truffle baron bigod accompanied by chutney , crackers , biscuits & jams. The cheese was paired with a fantastic Tokaji Aszu 2011 sweet wine and a 10 year old tawny port. Now it was time for dessert which had a nice Xmas name EGGNOG with gold , white chocolate & rum that was absolutely delicious.

 

We finished with coffee and a fabulous selection of petit fours to bring to an end a truly fantastic dining experience and as I said at the beginning one that we won't forget in a hurry. I would therefore highly recommend a visit to this amazing restaurant where the attention to detail and flavour of the food is of the highest calibre. I will definitely be returning as soon as possible in the new year.

 

Thank You Tom and all your team for the amazing food , wine & service. Wishing you all the best and look forward to seeing you all again soon.

 

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020 3301 2903 020 3301 2903

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