Since arriving on the scene, Lionel Strub’s elegant little restaurant has won a lot of friends with its classy renditions of French regional food. Candles, smartly clothed tables, wood-framed
mirrors and tiled floors set the tone, while Alsace tradition meets Yorkshire food heroes on the menu – think crispy black pudding croquettes with apple and onion relish, walnuts, celery and cider
emulsion or Holme Farm venison fillet with horseradish mash, roast beetroot, Cassis jelly and game gravy. Fish specials such as wild sea bass served in a Whitby lobster bisque with samphire are
chalked on a blackboard, and it’s worth waiting 15 minutes for the hot chocolate and caramel fondant with marmalade ice cream. Home-baked breads and home-cured charcuterie testify to the kitchen’s
hard work, while the cheeseboard finds Harrogate Blue alongside some ripe French specimens.
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