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The dramatically lit bar and its fine cocktails take centre stage at this expansive City Indian, but for all its nightclub posing, Mint Leaf Lounge also serves "delightful" modern food that's worthy of attention. Combining deft spicing with an iconoclastic, seasonal approach to ingredients that's light years from three-pot curry-house clichés, it offers a feast of possibilities – from clever starters such as asparagus tempura with fennel, cumin and coriander or a shakarkandi salad involving roast sweet potato, pepper, pickled beetroot and puffed quinoa to bold mains including tandoori poussin or pot-roast rabbit spiced with fennel, mustard, chilli and onion seeds. Service is "discreet" and the wine list majors on heavyweight vintages at expense-account prices, although there are some spice-friendly Rieslings too. "Swanky" if stygian by night, Mint Leaf lounge is brighter at lunch – though it's hardly a place for sun worshippers.
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