Sometimes the best culinary experiences are serendipitous. Lost and driving blindly around the unfamiliar, pitch black wilderness of the Ardnamurchan Estate we came across a mediaeval Castle on the Estate lands. It turned out to be a bijou hotel and restaurant. Exhausted and irritable we went in to ask directions and were met with gracious and helpful staff that had us heading in the right direction in minutes. Being singularly unimpressed with our holiday cottage down the road we decided that the ‘restaurant with rooms’ that was Mingary Castle looked altogether more inviting, so we decided to book dinner for the Sunday evening. This impromptu decision turned out to be inspired.
The entry to Mingary Castle, a C13th Keep, is imposing yet leads onto a pleasant courtyard with a modest doorway opening into a warm and homely yet elegantly furnished oak-panelled restaurant. We were welcomed bymaitre D’ Jessica Thompson, co-patron with her partner, chef Colin Nicholson. Thompson, has a varied and rich experience including as restaurant manager at the Roux’s Inverlochy Castle where Nicholson was also head chef. Hailing with her partner from North Uist she brings bucketloads of island charm and warmth. Attentive without being overbearing she ran us through the 8-course tasting menu, which draws its inspiration from the local surroundings and includes wonderful foraged fare.
The amuse bouches included crab, pork and a wild garlic panisse, which was exceptional. Homemade bread with three whipped butters was followed by Jersey Royals with truffle custard, a dish that was was creamy yet subtle. The Mull scallop ceviche was delicate with an unusual gorse dressing and the elegant centrepiece, St. Bride’s chicken with wild garlic, was delicious. The braised leg was bursting with flavour and the madeira jus rich and deeply flavoured. Every course had charm and elegance, and at £80 for the full billing a meal here represents good value. The wine list was made for food and was reasonably priced too.
Thompson and Nicholson are putting together a dining and accommodation experience that should see Mingary Castle become a serious destination for food lovers committed to sustainability, local produce and a comely experience.