Done out like a 1950s' tattoo parlour, this raucous rock ‘n' roll dive is the third venture from maverick mixologist JJ Goodman (the 2009 winner of Raymond Blanc's The Restaurant). As before, the drinks are sharper than any cooking skills on offer – so try something wacky such as a Tequila-based ‘coupet' of squid ink, smoked bacon, sugar, lemon and egg white. Alternatively, spend the best part of a tenner on a tipple that's ess ‘out there' – perhaps a rose-petal martini, a stone-fruit sour or Tommy's margarita. At ‘three for £5', pickled paprika eggs, prairie oysters and oven-dried tomatoes might not be everyone's first choice of ‘great British bar snacks', but cauliflower cheese croquettes, lamb koftas with tzatziki and Maman Blanc's ham-hock terrine work well at this likeable, if not super-slick Covent Garden gig.