By nature, pop-ups and chef takeovers are fleeting - often over before you know they’ve started - but Ling Ling’s likes to stick around a little longer. Founded by chef Jenny Phung and her partner Shep, the Cantonese-inspired cooking concept has built a loyal following with long-term residencies across Hackney and beyond. Now, at Godet, the pair are firing on all cylinders.
Perched on the corner of Essex Road, Godet has become a local favourite hangout for its part-pub, part-wine bar, part-listening room approach. Decorated with gingham bistro curtains and painted in a wash of pale green and muted orange, it’s much like a cute French dollhouse - only with ‘godets’ of natural wine and an audiophile-grade vinyl sound system. Between the dinky tealights and the cosy corner tables, it’s also one of the best date-night spots in East London.
We’re a couple of sips into our glasses of Jacquere when an ensemble of zippy small plates starts to descend. First, we reach for Ling Ling’s famous fried wontons - packed full of juicy pork and water chestnut, each savoury parcel impressively holds its shape beneath a glistening golden shell. If sharing between two, the fifth wonton is contentious.
In a refreshing take on charred hispi cabbage, the leafy layers have the texture of slippery flat rice noodles, smothered in sweet hoisin sauce and offset with a crunchy handful of seeds. We hop, skip, and jump between mouthfuls of supple bavette steak, sinus-clearing wasabi beetroot, and glossy beef ragu noodles - the kaleidoscope of flavours and textures harmonising, rather than competing. Elsewhere, a toppling stack of crispy radish rice cakes are a pleasing palate cleanser - glazed in a soy pomegranate sauce for a tart, acidic hit.
Dessert is a matter of indulgence: a hefty ladle of white chocolate tiramisu is wonderfully creamy and velvety, gently cut through with a sprinkling of matcha.
Our meal may be over but Jenny and Shep are busy frying, poaching and steaming in their tiny open kitchen. You get the sense that they are genuinely excited by what they’re cooking, and the feeling is contagious. Ling Ling’s at Godet is a great place to bring a date, sure, but don’t worry if you don’t find love - we’re pretty sure you’ll fall in love with this place instead.