Larry's Peckham

You can't help but have high expectations from Larry's, the sister site from the team behind critically-acclaimed Levan and Salon - two restaurants known for impeccable food and wine.

As soon as you arrive at Larrys you're welcomed by an instant hum of good music, good lighting and friendly staff. The interiors are brightly coloured, but classy and make you feel like you could almost be in New York instead of Peckham Rye (which in itself feels like London's answer to Brooklyn).

The drinks menu is simple with 5 house wines, 5 guest wines and 3 cocktails to choose from, a pleasingly succinct list that means you can't really go wrong. The food menu is also brief, but well thought out with nothing priced over £15, with options for things you could have with a drink or plates that equally warrent you to stay and graze on for a long lunch or dinner. The evening's highlights were of course the Larry's pickles which are essentially just a plate of perfectly pickled cucumbers but were so moreish, fresh and crunchy. The mozzarella beignets (which we could have eaten several portions of) were crispy pillows of deep-fried cheese - need we say more? Then finally the Szechuan Brown Crab Tagliarini, which had the most satisfying silky sauce, was absolutely addictive. We asked for a spoon to scoop up the remains.

The service was flawless. Wine was topped up before we’d even noticed it was getting empty and the dishes replenished with something new once we had eaten every last crumb from the previous plate. The staff were on the right side of chatty, attentive and professional which made the whole evening feel seamless and calm and we can't wait to go again.

Larry’s is the new venture from restaurateur trio Nicholas Balfe, Mark Gurney and Matt Bushnell; the brains behind the successful neighbourhood hangouts Salon and Levan. Drawing inspiration from the casual dining spots of New York, Larry’s is open all day offering patrons everything from hot coffee and fresh pastries in the morning, through to deli-style sandwiches at lunch and a concise menu of sharing plates for dinner; all served to the beat of a vintage Celestion Ditton sound system.

The restaurant’s name derives from 1970’s DJ Larry Levan and the interiors have been designed to match the era of his heyday. Orange laminate tables, banquette seating and reclaimed green Eames chairs create a laid-back vibe and communal atmosphere. Imitating delis in the Big Apple, the menu is be presented on lightboxes above the counter where punters can order baked goods and coffee to take away. A versatile central marble counter doubles as an extra table in the evening and a work bench for rolling pasta and serving pastries during the day.

Breakfast is a multi-cultural affair designed to fuel early-risers until lunchtime. Larry’s signature breakfast comprises two soft boiled eggs with mortadella, Emmental and focaccia or for a Jewish inspired option there’s lox with potato latkes, sour cream and dill pickle. Lunch is equally hearty with thick-cut focaccia sandwiches filled with the likes of meatballs and aged Gouda, as well as wholesome American-inspired salads like the Waldorf with poached pear, walnut, celery and blue cheese dressing.

Come evening and an array of sharing plates inspired by New York’s diverse and international ding scene are offered. Diners can start with snacks that might include crispy pork belly with sambal or Szechuan peanuts, before moving onto larger dishes such as steamed clams with hispi cabbage and XO sauce or pappardelle with pig’s head ragu.

From the drinks list wine is the focus with a lengthy and evolving selection of labels from interesting, low-intervention winemakers. Look out for Mark’s weekly changing picks or choose between one of two cocktails for a sweeter sip.