Kirazu’s Yuya Kikuchi must be one of the few London chefs to hold a license to cook fugu (the deadly blowfish), though you won’t find such risky dishes at his sweet Rupert Street izakaya. His short and simple menu of Japanese ‘tapas’ is partly inspired by the soya beans (kirazu) that give the restaurant its name. You can discover them transformed into gently wobbling tofu (perhaps in a salad or soup), and they also contribute to the vinegary miso with surf clams – as well as the soothing broth that accompanies the lunchtime sandwich and bento deals. Ramen specials, sushi and sashimi, plus a neat list of organic wines, fruit sakés and shochu flesh out an attractively priced offer. This homely-but-hip enclave can barely seat two dozen hungry souls at its rough-hewn communal benches.
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