JÖRO

Having outgrown its shipping container roots, JÖRO has relocated to the Oughtibridge Paper Mill development and whilst its doors have barely been re-open for a month, it’s already marked itself as a must-visit destination.

The new space is airy and capacious, framed by whitewashed stone walls and minimalist Scandi-style furnishings. It’s dark and moody, with flickering candles that provide just enough light for you to glance at the menu. Every table feels like a front-row seat to the action, strategically pointed towards the theatre of the open kitchen - a beacon of light where a brigade of chefs deftly weave about preparing each plate.

JÖRO’s magic lies not just in its stellar cooking but in the intimate and immersive nature of the experience. Diners are welcomed at the edge of the kitchen with an introductory course of wild mushrooms in a salted dashi that warms the soul. More than that, it’s the chefs themselves who deliver each dish, replacing scripted waiter recitations with something deeply personal and authentic, and blurring the lines of traditional fine dining in the most wonderful way.

JÖRO’s signature tasting menu bounces between big and bold flavours to subtly nuanced courses, each artistically plated dish masterfully blending Nordic and Japanese influences. Beef tartare croustade gains a sharp, lively kick from pickled Japanese ginger, while silky trout belly is nestled in a wafer-thin fennel tartlet, topped with a dollop of wasabi mayo and a crisp square of seaweed. There are playful nods to British classics too - a clever reimagining of cheese and pineapple sees a choux bun bursting with molten cheddar, paired with a wedge of pineapple brushed with sancho pepper and kaffir lime.

The evening continues with hit after hit. The seasonal scallop - a long-standing favorite at JÖRO - is nothing short of spectacular. Perfectly seared, it swims in a sticky rhubarb, habanero and vanilla hot sauce; a symphony of sweet and smoky flavours that you just want to get stuck into. Yet it’s often the most unsuspecting courses that leave the biggest impressions. A simple piece of celeriac has been glazed in teriyaki and chargrilled for a smoky depth, making this humble root vegetable a standout course.

For the full experience, the alcoholic drinks pairing is a must, spanning sake, reds, whites and even beer in its mix of perfectly paired tipples. An evening at JÖRO isn’t cheap, and will likely last several hours, but once you’re finished, you’ll be ready to do the whole thing all over again.