Chef Dominic Teague has masterminded a quiet revolution at One Aldwych’s smart mezzanine restaurant, which now offers a gluten- and dairy-free menu (though dishes aren’t prepared in a gluten-free kitchen). Ingredients such as almond milk feature alongside native meats and fish on a British menu with international flourishes. Warm buckwheat and samphire bread showcased the kitchen’s credentials, followed by a well-executed starter of partridge breast, prettily presented in a swirl of cauliflower purée with a savoury jus and fruity blackberries. Next, Brixham monkfish shone brightly in a fragrant Thai-style broth of lemongrass, coriander and coconut milk, though gluten-free gnocchi were rather dry in their autumnal melee of roast butternut squash and pumpkin oil. Nevertheless, accomplished desserts (a forte) finished the meal on a high. Friendly staff offer prompt service in the comfortable space overlooking the buzzy Lobby Bar below. A good-value set menu (£22/£27 for two/three courses) is another plus.