Few restaurants have arrived in the capital as garlanded with awards as the London outpost of Indian Accent. The New Delhi original is currently the only restaurant in India on the World’s 50 Best list and is regularly voted the country’s top place to eat; similar plaudits have rained down on its New York sibling since it opened in 2016.
Here in London, we’re a little more used to the idea of a high-end Indian restaurant and there was a danger that this class act might feel a little late to the party, but chef Manish Methrota’s sure-footed updating of traditional cuisine – respectful of heritage while being unmistakably individual – has proved highly successful. And at £55 for three courses plus sides and breads, it’s currently a bit of a bargain in Mayfair.
Our list of highlights runs as follows: soy keema mopped up with soft pillowy pao buns (vegetarian options are excellent); tenderly succulent pork ribs, beautifully marinated with onion seeds; an Indian spin on crispy duck involving juicy ghee-roast lamb; and smoked bacon kulcha with a deeply flavoured dhal that we would have happily eaten all night. Others, meanwhile, rave about the Kashmiri morels with walnut powder and Parmesan papad – “a dish of lightness and intensity, full of verve and culinary daring”.
Service (especially from those staff flown in from New York) is on the ball, “intelligent” wine matching is a strength, and the room itself “oozes grown-up sophistication”, with striking green upholstery set against a marble and pearl backdrop that practically glows with the expense lavished on it. Yes, this Indian Accent is well worth adopting.