Twelve years ago I lived on the Clapham/Brixton borders when the poll tax riots were a fading memory and Brixton was “up and coming”. Three car break-ins later I abandoned the experiment, vowing never to return: if the only way is up, that's because you're at the bl00dy bottom. But recently friends have raved about a Brixton foodie-led regeneration. Although they are the same people who insist Brixton is “vibrant”. Yeh, well so is the Pat Pong Road, I'm not convinced. But in the spirit of open-minded enquiry (alright, lured by rumours of an amazing burger) we decided to hunt down Honest Burger, cornerstone of the alleged revival. Hunt is the right word as it is buried deep in the heart of the covered Brixton Village Market, itself hidden by a maze of tie-dye touting, plastic-pot purveying, bauble-blinging outdoor market stalls. I am a little nervous not least as fast food joints are the preserve of gangsta yardies round here (Don't go near KFC if you want to make it out alive. Actually that's probably good advice wherever you live). And a man noting down telephone numbers at the door as he turns 3 girls away isn't heart-warming. But mysteriously (perhaps because we're just 2 and happy to sit outside under thoughtfully placed blankets) we get a table immediately and as we are seated the twinkly charmer of a waiter informs us the special drink of the day is mulled cider. The scales fall from my eyes. Then the burgers come out: they are juicy, tasty, bacony, meaty hunks of wonder with great rosemary chips. It is a road to Damascus moment. Only criticisms: it's very salty (so you will want that cider and more) and the bread could do with being a bit chunkier to contain the patty. All for less than £15 a head. Wow. As we walk back I see quirky boutiques, indie cafes (yes you can probably get gluten-free, nut-allergy friendly, vegan food here but through my new eyes that seems wonderful not weird), and cheerful locals. It is vibrant. Maybe Brixton has finally reached wherever “up” is.