Stunning views of the river Lagan and the bridges of Belfast make this converted barge moored in front of Waterfront Hall one of the most impressive locations to eat in the city centre of Northern Ireland’s capital, especially in summer when the sides of the dining room are opened to the fine weather.
‘Irish produce to create Irish dishes’ is the mantra of a kitchen headed up by chef Calvin Holohan, whose grandmother Sheila founded the restaurant. Expect a menu with plenty of native salmon, venison, watercress, shellfish, lamb, beef, pork, cheese – and of course Irish potatoes. Seasonal and ethically sourced ingredients are also important here, though Northern Irish cooking isn’t presented as a piece of heritage but a subtly updated, contemporary cuisine.
Prawns might come with a napa slaw, chilli jam and garlic mayo, while pan-fried sea bass is accompanied by herb-crushed potatoes, kale, chorizo, brown shrimp and lemon butter. Seared scallops and pork belly with roast cauliflower purée, spinach, capers and balsamic is a more classical combination, or else there is steak and chips (dry-aged sirloin), chicken breast with fondant potato, savoy cabbage, wild mushroom and tarragon jus, plus veggie options such as blue cheese and red onion tart.
Desserts have the refreshing simplicity of the best homemade cooking: baked plums with chocolate mousse, sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce or cheese and crackers.
Sundays see a roast with all the trimmings served for both lunch and dinner, smoked cod for the non meat-eaters and boxty for the veggies. A children’s menu, meanwhile, has sausage, mash and gravy, homemade soup and crusty bread or a cheeseburger and chips.
The wine list is as snappy as the ever-changing menu, with 20 whites and reds from lesser-known producers ticking off all the main grape varieties from around the world. Otherwise there are Irish beers and ciders, premium soft drinks and, of course, Irish whiskies.