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For more than 20 years, Lancashire hero Paul Heathcote’s Longridge restaurant shone like a beacon across the Ribble Valley, but following its demise he is now concentrating on this brasserie – and the change of emphasis appears to suit him. Occupying an attractive building on a leafy Preston square, the modern dining room oozes smart formality with its lilac colour schemes, glitzy bar, leather banquettes and contemporary lighting – although it also has an appealing, all-inclusive vibe. The kitchen focuses on British themes, with the odd French and Mediterranean riff for good measure – witness signature dishes such as black pudding with sweetbreads, bay leaf sauce and baked beans, char-grilled ‘roast’ chicken or braised beef with nettle risotto and Garstang Blue cheese fritters. Heathcote also couldn’t resist bringing his legendary bread-and-butter pudding with apricot espuma to Preston – people still travel miles for it.
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