Roger & Anne Harris’s charming little side-street restaurant has been drawing the crowds for some 36 years with its brand of unabashedly simple dishes based on quality Cornish produce. The cooking strikes a confident, modern note, & portions are generous. Freshly landed fish from nearby Newlyn harbour might bring grilled Dover sole served with chive butter, or maybe steamed John Dory partnered by a saffron sauce, while Cornish spring lamb is roasted & finished with a red wine & rosemary sauce. Desserts range from comfort (treacle tart) to classic (crème brûlée), & friendly, relaxed service chimes well with the setting. The ground-floor dining room is linked to the upstairs bar via a spiral staircase.