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Fallow St James's

British·
££££
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Gold Award
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SquareMeal Review of Fallow St James's

Gold Award

Fallow’s St James's postcode could easily give the restaurant a formal feel, but instead the atmosphere is one of warmth and ease. Immediately, staff are so enthusiastic about the food that they convince you to try the unusual options you might otherwise have skipped past in search of something safer.

A cod’s head is a signature dish, covered in homemade sriracha butter sauce; while corn ribs aren’t ribs at all. These curled up, crispy bites are sweet and chewy and actually pieces of deep-fried corn on the cob that are then doused in a spicy, salty. You have to get your hands involved, so they feel like a proper messy treat.

Elsewhere a meaty mushroom pate was light and silky smooth with the richness of butter and the fragrance of truffle. The only complaint is that the restaurant doesn’t offer it to take away by the vat load, to eat on your sofa.

Mains brought pork cut by the intense hum of XO sauce, while dessert was the Instagram-friendly soft serve – which isn't just a gimmick. The rich chocolate flavour is intense and there are little malty, crispy hits from nuts and cocoa nibs and what tastes like crushed up cornflakes to contrast with the silky smooth base.

The chefs who head up Fallow met while working for Heston and are passionate about cooking in a carefully conscious way. In the wrong hands the menu could have been lacklustre, but the way to get people to care about championing sustainable cooking is to create dishes like these. They’re better than your average restaurant serving prime cuts of steak or whole lobsters.

As we sat eating in the buzzy atmosphere, plate after plate came out without criticism, with ingredients carefully balanced to elevate one another. Drinks too - as they do - helped create a lively atmosphere with a carefully chosen list of bottles sitting alongside classic cocktails.

Fallow is generous and indulgent, relaxed and innovative, and in short, it’s everything you want from eating out.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
British
Ambience
Cool, Fun, Lively, Unique, Widely spaced tables
Awards
SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
All day dining, Brunch, Dinner, Lunch, Sunday roast
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating, Terrace
Special Features
Counter dining, Gluten-free options, Vegan options, Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Group dining [8+], Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About

Founded by two Dinner by Heston alumni, Fallow in St James's first started out life as a long-term residency at 10 Heddon Street in Mayfair. The brand began when Will Murray and Jack Croft met over the stoves of Dinner by Heston and shared a similar passion for cooking sustainably while retaining very different approaches to their style of food. Four years later, with Dinner by Heston behind them, the pair came up with the idea of Fallow and distilled their individual talents into one coherent concept.

Then, just ten days after Fallow opened officially for the first time at 10 Heddon street, the team had to close the doors to their band new venture due to Coronavirus. During that time – as many other businesses did – the restaurant pivoted to start selling produce and began creating home cooking kits. Once the doors reopened, the team came back with a creative, constantly evolving menu packed with lesser-used ingredients to minimise waste in the industry. Making use of elements like cod’s head and dairy cow beef, the line-up is full of interesting combinations that elevate humble produce to new heights.

Fallow now finds its permanent home in St James's Market (on the former site of Duck & Waffle Local). As well as the traditional a la carte offering, it also serves brunch, a set lunch menu and a specific Sunday option. Sharing plates on the main menu might include things like smoked cod’s head with Fallow Sriracha sauce and leek oil or Fallow deer with Kalibos cabbage, glazed celeriac and beetroot. Finish things off with a caramelised whey Chelsea tart, or Pump Street chocolate mousse with salted caramel, mushroom and truffle.

The 150-cover site is open all day and boasts a main dining room and a wraparound terrace, while a seven-seater chef’s counter overlooks the open kitchen, should you want to be up close to the action.

Photography by Steven Joyce


FAQs

Does it have a terrace?

Yes, it has a wraparound terrace right in the heart of St James's Market. There are blankets and heaters too, in case of cool evenings.

Helpful? 0

What is the menu like?

The menu is made up of dishes that make use of bold flavours and have a focus on sustainability. This means that lesser used ingredients are given time to shine, so expect things like beef form ex-dairy cows or the now-signature cod’s head with a siracha butter. There are small plates to start, substantial mains and a selection of puddings too - which include soft serve ice cream made with seasonal ingredients.

Helpful? 0

Who owns the restaurant?

Will Murray and Jack Croft are the owners and head chefs. The pair met while working under Heston Blumenthal at his restaurant Dinner by Heston. Both are passionate about creative cooking that has sustainability at its core.

Helpful? 0

Are there gluten-free options on the menu?

Yes there are gluten-free options on the menu.

Helpful? 0
Meet the team
Fallow St James's

Jack Croft

Chef Proprietor

Fallow’s Jack Croft was always destined to work in the hospitality industry, having been brought up working alongside his father, Calcot Manor’s executive chef. Following six years spent at Dinner by Heston, Jack decided it was time to make it on his own. Joining forces with colleague and friend Will he made the move to open Fallow which has since received much critical acclaim. 

Fallow St James's

Will Murray

Chef Proprietor

With a passion for sustainable cookery, Will Murray is a Dinner by Heston alumnus with a CV that spans time at a clutch of other top-end restaurants. Experience at The Clove Club, Core and Royal Hospital Row has helped shape Will’s inimitable style that manages to combine fine dining techniques with beautifully simple plating for unfussy but nuanced food.


Location

52 Haymarket, St. James's, London, SW1Y 4RP

020 8017 1788 020 8017 1788

Website

Opening Times

All day
Mon 07:30-23:00
Tue 07:30-23:00
Wed 07:30-23:00
Thu 07:30-23:00
Fri 07:30-23:00
Sat 10:00-23:00
Sun 10:00-22:00

Reviews

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10 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

10 March 2023  
Food & Drink 1
Service 1
Atmosphere 0.5
Value 1
Too noisy for dinner

Would not go back again. Extremely disappointed.

Simon B

07 December 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Great location, buzzy atmoshere, fabulous food and brilliant wine list. The service was also fantastic

Louise E

05 December 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Our favourite restaurant in London incredible food and the best service 

Michelle P

05 December 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

This is literally the best restaurant in London. Innovative, fun, delicious. The greatest team all playing their part to deliver an exceptional experience 

Sonya P

05 December 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Love the ethos of this restaurant. 
The food, service, cocktails, champagne and ambiance are all amazing! 
Great place! 

James R

25 November 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Energy and the food.....

Julie N

23 November 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Fallow offers a fantastic spread of vegetarian and non-vegetarian options and the small plate format allows me to sample so many interesting things on each visit. Excellent food, excellent ethos and an engaging team.

Harriet F

23 November 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Delicious food and great ambience

Anon

23 March 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Innovative, great food served by charming staff. The best new restaurant last year! 

Alex G

26 April 2021  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4
Atmosphere 5
Value 4
Rich pickings

The dictionary says that the term ‘fallow’ means farmland that has been ploughed and harrowed but is then left for a period without being sown in order to restore its fertility and avoid surplus production. Although an ancient concept, it also has a wonderfully modern resonance, according well with all things sustainable. Fallow, one of the hottest new openings of 2020, takes this idea as its guiding principle and successfully pulls off the act of being both a right-on and very cool venue. The pedigree of the chefs (all ex-Heston Blumenthal) counts for something, but this is modern British cooking at its very best.

My scheduled visit last year was, like with many things, delayed owing to the pandemic. The wait made the anticipation all the greater and it is pleasing to report that Fallow only surpassed expectations. Lunching on a warm spring day when the restaurant’s tables spread into pedestrianised Heddon Street represented a wonderful way to experience the venue. With the restaurant trade having indeed lain fallow during lockdown, its fertility is now renewed. The whole street was buzzing and every table occupied. Reservations are strictly necessary, with opportunistic walk-ins almost impossible. Cool music streamed across the street. An almost holiday-like atmosphere prevailed.

Even with such a positive disposition, it was pleasing to see Fallow deliver on the culinary front. The team keep it simple, with the menu comprising around half a dozen each of snacks, starters and mains. Sadly the venue’s signature cod head dish was sold out (although my dining comrade had been lucky enough to enjoy it on a previous occasion), but there was more than enough to keep us comfortably occupied. While pondering on our principal dishes, we shared a plate of corn ribs and a pair of fallow scrumpets. Item one does what you expect: take some corn, shave it to look like ribs, griddle it and then present with salt and lime. Voila: both melt in the mouth tasty and nicely sustainable. Item two – the fallow scrumpet – was arguably the best across our lunch. It should win a prize just for its name, even if the term means simply a cross between a scone and a crumpet. Think of it as a tightly packed and deliciously intense breadcrumbed veal patty served with a dash of zingily sexy gherkin relish on the top. Where do you go after this? Well, the deer tartare started was pretty damned good, with the hazelnut accompaniment acting as a great foil to the meat. Our main (we both opted for the same) of lemon sole with English asparagus was the epitome of spring. The food almost glowed and it tasted wonderfully light, allowing for the wilful turning of a blind eye for the brown butter sauce. We washed all this down with a lovely white Bordeaux blend, chosen from an intelligently well compiled wine list. No complaints all round; friendly and efficient service and pricing in line with comparable venues. My top post lockdown meal out so far!

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020 8017 1788 020 8017 1788

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