Fallow St James's

Fallow’s St James's postcode could easily give the restaurant a formal feel, but instead the atmosphere is one of warmth and ease. Immediately, staff are so enthusiastic about the food that they convince you to try the unusual options you might otherwise have skipped past in search of something safer.

A cod’s head is a signature dish, covered in homemade sriracha butter sauce; while corn ribs aren’t ribs at all. These curled up, crispy bites are sweet and chewy and actually pieces of deep-fried corn on the cob that are then doused in a spicy, salty. You have to get your hands involved, so they feel like a proper messy treat.

Elsewhere a meaty mushroom pate was light and silky smooth with the richness of butter and the fragrance of truffle. The only complaint is that the restaurant doesn’t offer it to take away by the vat load, to eat on your sofa.

Mains brought pork cut by the intense hum of XO sauce, while dessert was the Instagram-friendly soft serve – which isn't just a gimmick. The rich chocolate flavour is intense and there are little malty, crispy hits from nuts and cocoa nibs and what tastes like crushed up cornflakes to contrast with the silky smooth base.

The chefs who head up Fallow met while working for Heston and are passionate about cooking in a carefully conscious way. In the wrong hands the menu could have been lacklustre, but the way to get people to care about championing sustainable cooking is to create dishes like these. They’re better than your average restaurant serving prime cuts of steak or whole lobsters.

As we sat eating in the buzzy atmosphere, plate after plate came out without criticism, with ingredients carefully balanced to elevate one another. Drinks too - as they do - helped create a lively atmosphere with a carefully chosen list of bottles sitting alongside classic cocktails.

Fallow is generous and indulgent, relaxed and innovative, and in short, it’s everything you want from eating out.

Founded by two Dinner by Heston alumni, Fallow in St James's first started out life as a long-term residency at 10 Heddon Street in Mayfair. The brand began when Will Murray and Jack Croft met over the stoves of Dinner by Heston and shared a similar passion for cooking sustainably while retaining very different approaches to their style of food. Four years later, with Dinner by Heston behind them, the pair came up with the idea of Fallow and distilled their individual talents into one coherent concept.

Then, just ten days after Fallow opened officially for the first time at 10 Heddon street, the team had to close the doors to their band new venture due to Coronavirus. During that time – as many other businesses did – the restaurant pivoted to start selling produce and began creating home cooking kits. Once the doors reopened, the team came back with a creative, constantly evolving menu packed with lesser-used ingredients to minimise waste in the industry. Making use of elements like cod’s head and dairy cow beef, the line-up is full of interesting combinations that elevate humble produce to new heights.

Fallow now finds its permanent home in St James's Market (on the former site of Duck & Waffle Local). As well as the traditional a la carte offering, it also serves brunch, a set lunch menu and a specific Sunday option. Sharing plates on the main menu might include things like smoked cod’s head with Fallow Sriracha sauce and leek oil or Fallow deer with Kalibos cabbage, glazed celeriac and beetroot. Finish things off with a caramelised whey Chelsea tart, or Pump Street chocolate mousse with salted caramel, mushroom and truffle.

The 150-cover site is open all day and boasts a main dining room and a wraparound terrace, while a seven-seater chef’s counter overlooks the open kitchen, should you want to be up close to the action.

Photography by Steven Joyce