Standards have clearly slipped at this once-packed venue. While the kitchen can still send out authentic north-east Thai cooking, tired furnishings & uninterested service mean custom has dwindled. Mint Vienetta-coloured walls, faded pictures & a humming fish tank, coupled with the faint whiff of wet dog, do little to attract punters, which is a shame as the food still passes muster. On a deserted Friday night, a homemade Thai sausage packed a punch, while prawn & pork dumpling was soft & sweet, if somewhat soggy. Mains of spiced chicken north-east style & gaeng ped neau (red beef curry) stole the show with their fresh, zingy flavours. Prices remain low, but curt service undoes much of the kitchen’s good work. Until Esarn Kheaw bucks up, takeaways seem the best bet.
020 8743 8930
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