There are no great surprises at this age-old Spanish pirate, squirrelled away on an obscure street at the Hyde Park end of Piccadilly. Little changes here, neither in the decor nor, it seems, in the staff. An artist transforms the exposed brickwork into something resembling a hieroglyphic installation, the vintages on the wine list inevitably evolve, and the outdoor tables and chairs are from time to time, refreshed. But otherwise, todo sigue igual: an unchanging rock in the coruscating waters of Mayfair, and all the better for it.
The menu, together with a cocktail list, is there to greet you as you take your seat. There’s no theatrical fanfare, no parade of chef’s specials. Indeed, the menu holds few surprises. But when the ground-floor kitchen springs to life: sizzling, carving and sending out waves of aromas, diners are left in need of no persuasion that the palate is in for a treat. The dishes themselves are unfussy, neither flouncy nor engineered for Instagram. Instead, the focus remains where it always has been – excellent flavours from beautifully sourced ingredients and confident cooking, that justify their Mayfair setting and, happily, without the usual Mayfair price tag.
The meal unfolds with confidence. Pimientos de Padrón arrive fresh and vegetal, alongside delicate slices of acorn-fed 5J jamón Ibérico, with bread and olive oil to start. Grilled asparagus with Manchego sauce and roasted almonds follow, rich but precise. Arroz negro delivers depth and indulgence, while prawns in olive oil, garlic, and dried chilli bring both heat and texture. For something more substantial, there’s a choice between chicken or seafood paella, or a ribeye paired with rocket and a Manchego sauce. A veritable flottilla of dishes, and not a dud amongst them.
To finish, a Basque-style cheesecake – light, refined, and thankfully not too heavy – served with a red berry coulis provides just enough sharpness to close the meal on a high. Staff continue the Spanish theme – professional and hospitable to a tee.