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If you'd been thinking Pop Brixton was in need of Cantonese cred, this little café (next door to the New Zealand Wine Cellar) has set things straight. The look is pure kitsch: princess-pink booths, Formica, orange plastic chopsticks and fake fruit dangling from peg-board walls – it's Hakkasan for hipsters. A one-page menu is divided between fried, wok, steamed and BBQ sections, with roast duck taking centre stage (roast goose is actually only served on Saturdays). Start with prawn toast 'revisited', which is a huge slab of fried sesame toast stuffed with juicy prawn mousse and topped with lettuce, pickled kohlrabi and wafting bonito flakes. Mains arrive on a metal tray: moist slices of char sui, pork belly and crispy-skinned duck in a pool of meaty juices. It’s all well-cooked, although the accompanying choi sum was heavy on the seasoning and we were baffled by the mustard dip (tuck in to the house plum sauce instead). To finish, the decadent cha chaan teng French toast, essentially a deep-fried peanut butter sandwich, will send you home on a happy sugar high.
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