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With longevity on its side, Don Giovannis has been cosied up to St Peter’s Square – and consequently handy for the conference and office crowds – for more than 30 years. In that time the city has grown and changed around it, and pasta joints have proliferated all over town. This old-timer’s response has been to clothe itself as a young buck, with refurbs keeping the interior clean and contemporary, and nary a splash of red sauce. A zero-surprises food policy fosters loyalty among customers who come for the melon with Parma ham, mozzarella fritta or calamari followed by farfalle al salmone, calzone or saltimbocca. So far, so predictable, but sourcing is carried out with reasonable care, especially for fish and beef, and the experienced floor team are unlikely to be wrong-footed. Wine is all Italian, from £18.50, and at weekends live music adds an extra shot of atmosphere.
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