Adam Reid at The French

Simon Rogan is long gone, but his protégé Adam Reid continues to turn heads at this flagship restaurant within Manchester’s vintage Midland Hotel. Though the grand dining room’s opulent decor hasn’t changed, eating here feels less formal than before – but no less impressive, with Reid stamping his own distinctive mark on proceedings. All cooking is labelled as modern British, which really can mean anything these days.

We’ve had our share of thrilling encounters here – from seared scallop with trout roe and roasted onion broth to a superbly executed dish of salt-aged duck with vivid purple beetroot and pickled elderberries. Other standouts have a noticeable North Country accent – think nibbles of dripping toast with grated tongue or a Lancashire ‘tasty’ cheese and onion pie with lovage and eel, as well as a meat-free combo of ‘tater ash’ with mushroom ‘catsup’, bread and butter. To finish, rhubarb jelly with ginger malt ice cream is one option, but don’t miss Reid’s ‘Golden Empire’ dessert – an award-winner from his Great British Menu 2016, consisting of a golden candy apple adorned with hazelnut crumble and meadowsweet custard.

In line with Adam’s desire to make his food more accessible there are a number of menu options to choose from, including four- and nine-course tasting menus, as well as a Great British Menu themed one. Although with the cheapest at £65 per person for four courses it is perhaps only accessible in terms of menu choice, but with the level of cooking offered up we think it is worth the price tag every time.

Meanwhile, spot-on service with a friendly and efficient edge ensures a stunning gastronomic experience without any fine-dining stuffiness. Because of its city-centre location this is a great one to add to your list when visiting for a day of shopping or shows, and is equally as pleasant at lunch or dinner time.

Located within the Grade-II listed Midland Hotel in Manchester, The French is an elegant restaurant run by award winning head chef Adam Reid. Reid is the recipient of 4 AA Rosettes, as well as a two-time-winner of Great British Menu.

The restaurant itself is grand, bringing a refined elegance that matches the grandeur of the Midland Hotel's history, tying together the old and the new. The Grade-II listed dining room has been thoughtfully restored, so it retains the period charm of the Victorian building but still feels contemporary and comfortable, without being overly formal. Sink yourself into blue velvet booths, surrounded by striking light fixtures and double height ceilings, for a rather luxurious evening.

When it comes to the food, The French serves a seasonal, modern British food, with an emphasis on proper sourcing and provenance. Often that means Reid and team will source locally, but The French places quality above all else. The menu itself has a north-westerly accent, taking inspiration from Reid's background and upbringing in Manchester.

There are a couple of menus available at The French, an ‘Initials’ and ‘Signature’ option. The Signature offers little information, providing simply the main element of each dish, think ‘shellfish’, ‘fungi’ and ‘cheese’. As for the ‘Initials’ Menu, expect a warm ‘Northern welcome' of bread, butter and broth, followed by an amuse bouche such as cured ham hock with Iberian pigs frid in breadcrumbs.

Mains include dishes like day boat cod loin poached in brown butter with white asparagus milk, or lamb with ramson caper gravy and pickled carrot. Desserts are also heavily Brit-inspired and include baked English custard with seasonal fruit. There is a menu of paired wines and matching drinks to accompany your meal, you will find a broad selection of wines available, plus sparkling wines and champagne.