From the start everything about this restaurant made a statement about enjoying the experience, from the relaxed staff to the chance to talk to one of the chefs preparing desserts just near us and to the chef popping over to our table as he returned to the kitchen each time he had performed his duties outside for the Manchester foodie event in the hotel. The tiny list of half bottles was rather disappointing but we were persuaded to take the seven glass wine flight on the basis that they were supposed to be small glasses (some were, others weren’t) and the wines proved to be interesting and excellent matches for the food. The canapés were very convincing - lovely whipped cod’s roe with good squid ink crackers and a notable paprika powder sprinkle, and ‘tea and toast’ with a super, intense beefy broth and a dripping cream with a hint of horseradish running through it. The first starter was delicious fried oyster with very suitable buttermilk sauce, cauliflower and bacon and an accent of chives, and this was followed by tater ‘ash - the tiny diced potato and veg mixed with tasty raw sirloin and served with light brown bread and beef and onion butter, a surprising and comforting dish. A splendid piece of hake for the fish course had been poached to perfection in mushroom butter and this was well supported by a garlic-based green sauce with a parsley tang. We agreed to differ on the organic chicken which I found somewhat on the bland side and my wife thought was absolutely spot on with a generous flavour typical of good organic poultry, and there was a similar difference of opinion about the accompanying turnip, barley and corn mix. The Stichelton crumpet, however, brought murmurs of satisfaction from us both and the armagnac-soaked prunes went so well with the cheese we could have happily had it three times over. We were also bowled over by the aroma coming from the easy peeler dessert with its sea buckthorn cream, sugary skin and white chocolate leaf. And what a way to finish! An exceptional raspberry quenelle with equally good baked cream cheese and a touch of cinnamon. A really impressive introduction for us to fine dining in Manchester, and a venue we would hope to return to.