SquareMeal Review of Dishoom Kensington
Modelled on Mumbai’s famous Iranian-style cafés, Dishoom challenged our preconceptions of ‘Indian restaurants’, and succeeded in winning us over – judging by the crowds that pile into its branches across the capital. From breakfast to late-night cocktails, the focus is on tongue-in-cheek fun: the quirky decor of each venue incorporates a little of its location – think vintage Bollywood pictures in the heart of theatreland or Formica tables and 60s fittings in the Carnaby Street iteration. The all-day menu, meanwhile, leavens its Indian staples with a dose of pure Britishness (bacon naan breakfast rolls, anyone?), while brilliant descriptions really nail each dish: don’t miss Mumbai-style small plates such as chilli-cheese toast, the ginger-spiced, grill-blackened lamb chops, the silky, slow-simmered black dhal, and location-specific signatures such as the mouth-watering braised lamb raan served at the airy Shoreditch branch. Join the queue: it’s worth the wait.
About Dishoom Kensington
It is almost impossible to walk past any Dishoom in the city without seeing queues that stretch around the block, and the Kensington branch is no different. Getting a table at this modern and exciting Indian restaurant isn’t easy but with so many classic dishes and modern variations on the traditional cuisine, it is no wonder Dishoom has become such a hit in the city.
Modelled to look like a jazz club in Bombay from the 1940s, the extravagant art deco décor of chandeliers, a giant clock overlooking the entire restaurant and teak wood panelling will transport you to another era while the will food transports you to an Indian city.
Serving up dishes all the way through from breakfast to late-night snacks, start your day off right with the now-famous bacon naan roll with cream cheese, chilli tomato jam and fresh herbs. For when you visit later on in the day, start your meal with filo pastry lamb samosas before moving onto the creamy 24 hour cooked house black daal, chicken ruby and vegan jackfruit biryani. For those late night Dishoom cravings, the carby Roomali Rolls, with the option of indian cheese, paneer or chicken tikka will be sure to soak up any alcohol you’ve consumed and leave you hangover free the next morning.
Accompany your spicy dishes with a hoppy butter paanch Dishoom IPA or go for a sweet and refreshing cocktail like the Bollybellini with raspberries, lychee, rose and cardamom or The Kohinoor Fizz with gooseberry syrup, lime juice, gin and prosecco.
Forget all you preconceptions about Indian restaurants when you visit Dishoom. Filled with families, suits and socialites alike the crowds at Dishoom include people from all walks of life making for a constantly buzzy atmosphere. Mixed with enticing Indian dishes, this restaurant is well worth the wait.