The third site for fried chicken purveyor Chick ‘n’ Sours finds its home on Islington’s restaurant crowded Upper Street, in a much larger space than the Haggerston original. Along with the normal tables, guests can grab drinks from the bar (including the signature Sours), or dine at the window counter, while groups can opt for the large round table by the open kitchen, which comes complete with a palm-print Lazy Susan.
Chick ‘n’ Sours’ sense of fun is felt through its quirky interiors, such as the large graffiti mural which sees the cast of Peaky Blinders depicted in drag. The menu is just as cheeky, featuring the group’s signature dishes alongside new additions such as chicken toast: described as “just like prawn toast, but with chicken”, this is a sticky, gloriously messy delight. Elsewhere, bang bang cucumbers arrive smeared in a tangy brown sauce, completed by a scattering of peanuts and a dash of chilli oil.
For the main event, there’s a selection of ‘dirty good’ stacked burgers, all stuffed with crispy, well-seasoned chicken thighs. Options include the simple General, which is topped with mayo, lettuce, cheese and pickles, or go big with the Seoul Destroyer: a monstrously messy burger which is slathered in a bold mix of nacho cheese, schmaltz (melted down chicken fat) and sharp kimchi.
Such gut-busting dishes mean you won’t want to come here every week, but for filthy fried food with substance, Chick ‘n’ Sours is worth getting in a flap over.