A walk-ins only policy, a daily-changing menu, and a slightly pretentious Instagram account are hardly novel in London’s dining scene, but for Canteen, they feel entirely on brand. From the team behind The Pelican and The Hero, this Notting Hill Italian has been a social media hit since its opening, and a year later, the hype hasn’t waned. Tables turn over like clockwork, queues snake out the door, and there’s a buzz that never dims.
Inside, it’s warm and deliberately unfussy - a little rough around the edges. Low lighting casts a soft glow over steel countertops, whilst glass cabinets are stacked with preserves and cured meats. Wood-fired ovens roar at the back of the room, radiating heat and filling the room with the irresistible scent of smoke and toasted dough. It’s compact but makes the most of its limited space: bright yellow benches are squeezed to the sides, high-top tables filling every inch of the space. If you can, be sure to nab a seat at the counter - it's easily the best seat in the house - offering a front row seat to the action.
At the helm are River Cafe alumni Jessica Filbey and Harry Hills, whose daily-changing menus riff on Italian staples. We start with rosemary-flecked farinata topped with sweet ribbons of lardo. The balance is spot-on, if slightly fleeting - once the fat disappears, you’re left wanting more. A creamy hunk of mozzarella follows, slicked with olive oil - the good stuff - and paired with salty artichokes and a coarse pangrattato crumb to tie everything together. It’s simplicity done well, the kind of dish that Canteen thrives on, proof that quality ingredients and a light touch go a long way.
The evening continues with hit after hit, but pasta is where Canteen really shines. Sausage and tomato ragu clings to strands of tagliarini - rich, and gently smoked, the kind of sauce that tastes as if it’s been simmering all day. We only order the half portion, but a full bowl would vanish just as quickly. Pizza holds its own too, though it's hard to resist something that’s been cooked right in front of you. Today’s toppings include leek, goat’s cheese and pancetta, perhaps leaning overly salty, without much to cut through the richness.
Nowadays, you can spend a small fortune on pasta in London, but Canteen makes a convincing case for it. It’s busy, slightly chaotic, and very much leans into the trend. We can imagine that it won't be everyone’s cup of tea, but we’d happily queue up again and again for another bite of that ragu.