Bulrush Restaurant

SquareMeal Review

Chef George Livesey’s culinary CV reads like a Who’s Who of the UK restaurant scene, and all that experience is paying off handsomely at Bulrush – the Bristol gaff he runs with wine-savvy partner Katherine Craughwell. Together, they’re an “enthusiastic and skilled couple” who have turned these premises into a genuine neighbourhood restaurant with a “relaxed but very professional” outlook. Meanwhile, George’s kitchen delivers “amazing food at unassuming prices” with seasonal favours and foraged pickings figuring prominently on the menu, and lots of perky, imaginative ideas executed with real élan: BBQ broccoli with smoked junket and preserved lemon sets the tone, while mains might include Speckle-faced lamb with Jersey royals, artichoke and wild leeks. Fish from the West Country boats could yield turbot with tulip (yes!), radish, green tea and crab, while desserts have included pumpkin-seed ice cream as well as barley grass parfait with wild strawberries and saké. Katherine’s drinks list covers everything from local beers, cider and cocktails to a decent showing of biodynamic wines.