SquareMeal Review
Silver Award
Considering the popularity of the original Blacklock in Soho, it’s no surprise that the chophouse has added to its portfolio. This City branch takes a larger form, seating 100 covers in an industrial-style basement of exposed brickwork and concrete floors with a crowd-pleasing, eclectic soundtrack. Founder Gordon Ker has made room on the menu for some new additions, such as the tangy pig’s head on toast to start, topped with gherkins, chilli pepper and lashings of gravy. Blacklock’s signature ‘all in’ option has wisely not been messed with and remains a must-order: a perfectly cooked stack of beef, lamb and pork chops served atop crisp, herb-flecked flatbreads, which have soaked up the meat juices. Cocktails can be found at the bulky brass bar upon entering, with sips including the Pink Lady (cider brandy, cider syrup and Prosecco) impressing, and all for just £5 each. Meanwhile, desserts add to the homely feel with vanilla cheesecake atop a crumbly biscuit base, served tableside out of a tray. Friendly, fun staff, reasonable prices and the option to book (unlike the original) cement Blacklock City’s position as a cut above the rest – we wouldn’t be surprised to see more.