Like its sister establishments Bistro Franc and Bistro Pierre in Liverpool city centre, Bistro Jacques presents an unabashed French rustic-chic face to the world. Hard surfaces amplify loud chatter, and background music means customers raise their voices over small tables – tempting deals help fill the place. The prime location, close to the Liverpool Philharmonic and Everyman Theatre, also helps attract a sizeable lunchtime and pre-theatre crowd; staff cope well, able to offer rapid delivery as well as more leisurely service for evening meals. Crisp Kir Royal slips down nicely while diners peruse the menu. Food on the daily changing list consists of robust, straightforward Gallic cookery: pan-fried frogs’ legs or pork crackling to start, perhaps, followed by classic coq au vin swathed in rich sauce, or a meltingly tender boeuf Bourguignon served with panache. As if to emphasise the point, recorded French lessons are played in the toilets.