Chef Dave Miney learned the smoky secrets of Japanese barbecue during a formative spell cooking in izakaya bars in Tokyo. He launched Bincho Yakitori at London’s Oxo Tower in 2007 and then in Soho, but has now swapped the capital for a rundown backstreet off Brighton beach. This unlikely location adds an authentic grungy feel to the place, epitomising the atmosphere of Japan’s late-night drinking dens. The foil-clad grill, which glows with slow-burning binchotan coals, forms the backbone of the open kitchen, producing skewers replete with spice, umami and smokiness. Think gamey chicken hearts, gratifyingly fatty pork belly and sticky Korean chicken wings (a cult favourite). The vegetable dishes are just as good: from sweetcorn smeared with miso butter to charred sweet potato. Japanese craft beers and a concise list of sakés help maintain the buzzy vibe, which keeps the right side of raucous thanks to sweet and charming service.
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