Moving into the former site of a much-revered neighbourhood institution is no easy feat. Especially when that site was, for several decades, held by Jewish deli and undisputed purveyor of latkes and perfect pickles, Harry Morgan’s - much mourned by locals since its departure. Suffice to say that in choosing this as the destination for their move from Mayfair, Babbo has its work cut out for it.
Yet, the cherished counters of Harry Morgan’s seem to have faded to a distant memory: we visit Babbo on a Tuesday night to find the restaurant bustling, and mid-century seating filled with local punters. Babbo (which apparently translates to “daddy”) has risen to its challenge, creating an immaculate restaurant with a distinctly neighbourhood feel, that still retains a sense of occasion. Pristine staff are quick to make you feel welcome, guiding you through the dimly lit, elegantly renovated restaurant, which has been kitted out in sleek wooden finishe, deep red tones and velvet-upholstery.
The warm welcome continues at the table, where the food kicks things off with sharp, salty Parmesan nibbles and zucchini fritti, dipped in yoghurt and washed down with one of the restaurant’s signature cocktails. These are honestly interesting takes on the familiar, like the fresh, fragrant, and vibrantly green coriander-infused Verdita Margarita.
The menu is a welcome break away from any whisper of small plates or encouraged sharing, and brings a selection of classic, refined Italian cooking - retro-leaning in a comforting, rather than uninspiring, way. Tuna tartare is a great example, and an instant hit: a tidy mass of bluefin crudo, swimming in a zingy dill and apple dressing, all topped with a crisp slice of celeriac.
Pastas follow in a similarly high-achieving suit. Linguine with clams and (brilliantly green) tagliatelle with mushrooms may seem a safe order, but bring the kind of reliable excellence you need from a neighbourhood stop off like Babbo. As for desserts, a créme brûlée, complete with a perfectly crackable glassy sugar lid, and the added bonus of a tart plum sorbet, as well as an appropriately decadent tiramisu round off the meal perfectly.
The service at Babbo is warm and attentive, while remaining unfussy, and any questions about the menu are met with in depth knowledge and pitch-perfect recommendations. Staff have mastered the difficult balancing act between exceptional attention to detail while not being suffocating, allowing a laid back enjoyment of food that can mould between cosy weeknight dinners and a more lavish weekend affair.