Giving the London boozer a hip makeover, restaurateur Russell Norman (Mishkin's, Polpo) and business partner Richard Beatty have transformed the old Marquis of Granby on Cambridge Circus by knocking through to the next-door building. The large space now includes a restaurant and four bars over three floors; the pub feel remains with cosy design touches, although exposed vents and a mural by local artist Neil Fox bring things bang up to date. It’s a pity the same attention isn’t paid to the all-day menu of honest pub grub, which lacks consistency and suffers from service delays. Our starter of black-pudding hash with soft poached egg was richly satisfying, but both this and our underwhelming main of chicken, leek and mushroom pie came in tiny portions, with a disappointing side of soggy truffled cheese fries. Better to stick to the fine range of booze, including UK and US craft beers.