Akira Back at the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair

Japanese, Korean·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Akira Back at the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair

Silver Award

The long, long, long-awaited Akira Back at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair arrived surprisingly quietly, given the intense fanfare of last year. That isn’t always auspicious but whatever the reasons, the time was well used on the restaurant styling. The entrance to the restaurant is purposely obscured as you enter the hotel, giving everyone that ‘wow’ moment as you walk into a towering skylit atrium and make your way down a suspended green marble spiral staircase. It’s a special moment that not many restaurants in London deliver.

Back is a relatively new face in London but a huge star overseas, particularly in Korea and the USA. The menu at his eponymous restaurant sits on a foundation of classic Akira Back dishes, including that tuna sashimi pizza - three words that could have London’s omakase fans grumbling furiously. It certainly looks the part, and it’s an easy-going, tasty crowd pleaser. Is it going to blow your mind? Probably not, but it’s the beginning of a dive into what we really love about Akira Back - it’s fun, interesting, and surprisingly relaxed.

This is still a hotel restaurant, so there’s clearly a desire on the menu to cover a lot of bases for the variety of guests that will stay here. If you can look past the slightly incongruous nature of that, there’s lots to like. Wagyu bulgogi tacos are a mishmash of influences but there’s no denying the moreishness. Back’s Jidori chicken is at heart, a nicely cooked piece of chicken breast with potato puree, but no-one would be disappointed by it. Whether it’s deeply-braised Wagyu (yes, there’s a lot of Wagyu) with root vegetables, or the gentle spicing of the dynamite lobster, served neatly in its own shell, these dishes are delicious if not always harmonious. A crispy Wagyu sushi roll with coleslaw might have been a slight step too far for us, but if nothing else, Akira Back is doing something different and exciting and we applaud that.

Service is typically attentive, the wine list is stacked with quality and just next door you have the very sultry, sophisticated ABar Lounge with a fresh, fruit-laden cocktail list - we highly recommend the Shochili Mango (tequila and soju, mango, lime and a hit of togarashi). All in all, we reckon Akira Back at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair was worth the wait, and that’s saying something.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
Japanese, Korean
Ambience
Cool, Fine dining, Glamorous, Luxury, Widely spaced tables
Food Occasions
All day dining, Breakfast, Dinner, Late night dining, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Rooftop
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Romantic, Special occasions

About

Born in Korea and raised in Aspen, chef Akira Back has picked the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair hotel for his first UK venture, opening his eponymous restaurant in the luxury hotel. Having opened several eponymous restaurants world-wide and with multiple Michelin stars to his name, this is an incredibly exciting addition to the London Asian fine dining scene. Back will be kept busy running two restaurants, a bar and a rooftop ‘experience’ within the hotel.  

The main dining room is an impressive triple height room with a winding marble staircase creating an undeniable atmosphere of elegance and luxury. The menu is a celebration of Back’s Korean heritage fused with Japanese elements and will serve food all day. The breakfast is set to be international and Asian, for lunch expect perfectly curated bento boxes, finishing with delicious sharing plates and platters for dinner. 

The second restaurant named Dosa, meaning ‘master’ in Korean, is a counter dining chef’s table scenario with just 14 seats. Back opened Dosa originally in Seoul and was a resounding success, winning him a Michelin star in 2018. The layout of this intimate affair will afford guests a look in on the experts at work and front row seats to the delicate labour that goes into the dishes, which will be Korean dishes executed with French technique. The ambience of Dosa is influenced by mineral elements, complementing the wind, water and earthy aura of the main dining room.  

On the other end of the spectrum, inspired by fire, the ABar lounge will offer bite-sized delights and dramatic cocktails, livening up at night and hosting DJs at the weekend. The rooftop ‘experience’ will specialise in serving ‘epicurean delights’ whilst expert mixologists create decadent drinks to be enjoyed whilst taking in the panoramic views of London's skyline.  


FAQs

Is there a dress code?

A dress code of smart casual applies (no shorts, sportwear or slippers).

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Akira Back at the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair is featured in

Location

22 Hanover Square, Mayfair, London, W1S 1JP

020 7908 7889 020 7908 7889

Website

Opening Times

Breakfast
Mon 07:00-10:00
Tue 07:00-10:00
Wed 07:00-10:00
Thu 07:00-10:00
Fri 07:00-10:00
Sat 07:30-10:30
Sun 07:30-10:30
Lunch
Mon 12:00-14:30
Tue 12:00-14:30
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:30-15:00
Sun 12:30-15:00
Dinner
Mon 18:00-22:00
Tue 18:00-22:00
Wed 18:00-22:00
Thu 18:00-22:00
Fri 18:00-22:00
Sat 18:00-22:30
Sun 18:00-22:00

Reviews

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Pippa R

12 July 2024  
Food & Drink 5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 5
Value 4
Great food, great space, great service!

The space is stunning and I loved the high ceilings. Service was immaculate and the dishes are really inventive - can highly recommend the rock shrimp and perfect storm sushi! Really nice vibe and can't wait to be back.

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020 7908 7889 020 7908 7889

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