SquareMeal Review of
Manicured grounds, luxury rooms, courteous service and the peaceful surrounds of an RSPB nature reserve have long been a lure for VIPs, yet the cooking of Sat Bains-trained wunderkind Gareth Ward is now the star attraction at Ynyshir Hall (rebranded Ynyshir following a change of ownership). From the first taste of the home-baked bread with cultured butter through to the final sampling of strawberries with elder and yuzu, meals are shot through with intense flavours. Mackerel might be paired with rhubarb and back fat, pollack is exotically embellished with black beans, and salmon might be given the BBQ treatment. There are also starring roles for Welsh lamb and Welsh Wagyu beef, while ‘desserts’ offer a profusion of sweet (and sometimes savoury) delights, from ‘lager and lime’ to miso treacle tart. Wine fits the top-end bill, the dining room is a tranquil vision in shades of turquoise, and the chef’s table is a shoo-in for that special Michelin-starred occasion. Note that Gareth Ward is now chef/patron, having taken a stake in the business.