SquareMeal Review of
Wringer & Mangle London Fields
Gerry Calabrese, owner of The Hoxton Pony, is surely on to a winner with this charming, idiosyncratic conversion of a London Fields laundry. Half the considerable floor space – plus a kitsch, all-weather tented courtyard – is now a 1950s-cool lounge bar. On-trend booze bunnies will be keen to sample Calabrese’s 30 different £10 spins on the gin-based Tom Collins. Top takes include vibrant Colour Wash (plum-infused Bombay Sapphire and poppy liqueur, charged with beetroot and vanilla soda), The Walnut (Jack Daniels infused with duck fat-roasted walnuts, eucalyptus syrup and chocolate bitters topped with chilli foam) and The Crumble (vodka-laced liquid apple and blackberry pudding topped with a crumble crust). Less outré recipes – reposado Tequila Collins, for instance – and infusion jars to share, make up the compelling list. Champagne afternoon tea costs £24, while £120 gets a turbo-charged version for a party of four, including infusion-jar cocktails served in vintage china teacups.