SquareMeal Review of
Former MasterChef finalist Larkin Cen has popped up in the unlikely location of a shipping crate inside Bristol’s new food hub, Wapping Wharf. Dishes at his tiny, no-frills Asian restaurant are cooked to order on woks and bamboo steamers in the open kitchen at the back, while diners sit cheek by jowl on wooden benches – though given that Woky Ko specialises in Hong Kong street food, that’s as it should be. Familiar Asian classics with a modern (often Korean) twist are the order of the day. The menu is divided into sharing plates, bao steamed buns – nicely pillowy and filled with Korean fried chicken, kimchi and spicy Gochujang slaw – and made-to-order noodles or rice. Dishes are notably fresh-flavoured: lunchtime brings good-value specials, such as crispy duck noodle salad and aubergine green curry rice bowl, while popular sharing plates include salt and pepper squid with lemon aioli and seabass tartare. Excellent service is another plus.