SquareMeal Review of
From the same stable as Euston Tap and Holborn Whippet, this converted railway arch is invariably packed. It’s unlikely punters are here for the tinny muzak, musty ambience or prosaic decor (bookies’ office-style high tables and a couple of circular booths) – nor for the view into the men’s urinal. No, what draws the crowd is the beer wall’s two dozen-plus casked and kegged amber nectars in constant rotation. When we visit, highlights include a brace from the Beavertown boys; juicy jobs from Gipsy Hill (Hepcat and Wayfarer); Aegir Longboat; Fyne Ales Vital Spark; Rothaus gluten-free Pilsner; and a dangerously quaffable malt-chocolatey oatmeal stout from Bermondsey micro, Brew By Numbers. Snacks from south London Scotch eggs experts, Pig & Hay, quickly sell out. At closing time, ‘train beers’ are what to tuck under your arm before making a dash for the 23.40 to Clapham Junction and all points south-west.