SquareMeal Review of
Japanese food is thin on the ground in east London, so Tonkotsu East, in the arches at Haggerston since October 2013, has arrived not a moment too soon. The East End outpost of the cultish Soho original, this great-looking ramen-ya stakes its name on the quality of its ‘tonkotsu’ ramen, a speciality from the southern Japanese island of Kyushu. Noodle-slurpers more used to perky fusion broths from the high street may be surprised by the sheer ‘oomph’ of Tonkotsu’s meaty ramen; the 18-hour pork bone broth, homemade noodles and pork belly topping will kill a hangover stone-dead. The brief menu lists just a handful of noodle dishes (including cold tsukemen dipping ramen) plus some sides including tasty curried chicken wings, excellent porky gyoza and branch exclusives of pumpkin or crab korokke, all best enjoyed with beer (Japanese or local craft). Staff are well drilled but spread too thin. No reservations.