SquareMeal Review of
The Three Chimneys & The House Over-By
Eddie and Shirley Spear’s converted crofter’s cottage by the shores of Loch Dungevan promises matchless Highland hospitality, a lovingly curated wine cellar and food of tingling freshness for those who venture over the sea to Skye. Everyone is transfixed by the scenery, but there’s also plenty to admire in the refurbished dining room with its contemporary grey tones, food-related prints, tweed-covered chairs and exposed stone walls. The kitchen sets great store by sourcing and seasonality, although Scottish seafood is the trump card – think Dungaven langoustines with lightly smoked monkfish cheeks, young leeks and sea dashi or Mallaig hake with Iron Age pork belly, salt-baked celeriac and jus gras. Also expect excellent meat and game, from Skye venison with roasted squash to braised shoulder of Soay lamb with purple sprouting broccoli and caraway yoghurt. After that, invest in the chocolate ‘huila’ bar with Drambuie sour jelly, bitter orange and salted milk ice cream, or bow out with some fine Scottish cheeses. For a real treat, book a place at the ‘chef’s table’ within the new state-of-the art kitchen, then retire to the House Over-By next door.