SquareMeal Review of
The Star Inn
“Everything is sublime” at this famous Yorkshire gastropub-cum-restaurant, which is now enjoying Michelin stardom once again after a period in the doldrums. Since arriving here, chef/proprietor Andrew Pern has turned the 14th-century thatched Star Inn into a repository for top-drawer seasonal produce from Yorkshire and beyond. Fish and game always play a part – as in fillet of North Sea turbot with Wye Valley asparagus, bergamot, Whitby crab and lemon water vinaigrette or local roe deer cooked over charcoal with carrots, a pistachio cake, pickled cherries and ‘Twiglets’. A ‘locals menu’ offers some simpler pubby ideas such as creamy mussels in Ampleforth cider or venison cottage pie, while dessert might bring a take on rice pudding involving garden ‘goosegogs’ and lemon verbena. The heart of the Star is still the bar, where you can eat without booking amid ‘Mouseman’ oak furniture, brass ornaments and touches of tartan; otherwise take advantage of the sheltered front terrace and garden. Note that accommodation is across the road in Cross House Lodge.