SquareMeal Review of
The Prince West Brompton
Victorian boozer The Prince of Wales has been gutted by new owners Incipio – those folk behind street-food event Feast. Sadly, the result is a perfunctory pub that’s low on character… and beer spouts (Peroni and Meantime the boys on duty). Press onwards for the venue’s more visually stimulating USP. An 800-seater sunken, heated, indoor ‘woodland pergola garden’ is served by a massive bar and four street-food restaurants: burger barons Patty & Bun; Thai-inspired Begging Bowl Canteen; Rabbit (purveyors of oak-smoked potato röstis and toasted sarnies); and Viet barbecue joint, MAM. Laid with long tables under a canopy of plastic foliage, the sprawling double-height drinking dell might be a cheesy holiday-camp theme bar. Wines start at £20 (try the perky Puglian Primativo), while average-priced cocktails include Espresso Martini, a Red Bull-turbocharged Paloma, and Christmassy hot spiced rum with cloudy apple juice that, together with blankets provided, helps ward off winter’s chill.