SquareMeal Review of
Young’s revamp of this corner house at the foot of Queensway is a welcome development in a locale low on memorable pubs. The new look – less frowsy than before, if not particularly original – echoes various trends seen elsewhere, likewise a much improved food offer. Ubiquitous pub staples such as bangers and mash are supplemented by modish recipes torn from granny’s cookbook, with US twists including peanut sliders and chilli wings chucked into the mix. Typical trad treats might include lamb and pearl barley broth, beef cheek croquettes, twice-cooked pork belly with black pudding and apple sauce, various risottos and sharing boards followed by fruit tarts etc. To drink, Young’s beers and guests craft ales, good-value wines and cocktails including Breakfast Martinis complete a new chapter in the story of a tavern that has stood here for over 150 years.