SquareMeal Review of
The Pompadour by Galvin
A classy proposition from start to finish, the ever-fabulous Pompadour at ‘The Caley’ represents the first Scottish foray for Chris and Jeff Galvin – the duo behind London big-hitters such as Galvin Bistrot de Luxe and Galvin at Windows. Inside, breathtaking views of Edinburgh Castle vie for attention with the elegant interior, a grand vision of belle époque affluence involving hand-painted Chinese panels, florid cornicing and pink chandeliers. The food more than matches up too, thanks to a kitchen that melds French technique with prime Scottish ingredients. The menu ‘gourmand’, in particular, showcases great culinary skill and precision – from a delicate lasagne of North Berwick crab with layers of scallop mousse and beurre Nantais (a reworked Galvin classic) or roast Loch Etive sea trout with fluffy herb gnocchi, sea beet and mussels to croquette of Lake District pork with grapefruit and pickled celeriac. After that, baked Crowdie cheesecake with Perthshire strawberries should fit the bill – otherwise, opt for the alluring trolley of artisan French and British cheeses. Suggested wines pair beautifully with the food, and formal yet friendly service completes a thoroughly luxurious experience.